Frequently Asked Questions

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Performance Questions

 

What is camber?
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the tire/wheel assembly. This angle is measured from a true vertical line, i.e. perpendicular to the ground. A tire/wheel assembly that is tilted outward at the top is considered to have Positive camber. While a tire/wheel assembly tilted inward at the top, displays Negative camber. For a zero setting, the tire/wheel assembly is in the exact vertical position or perpendicular to the ground.
 
How far can I lower my car before I need to adjust camber?
ANY amount of ride height change will cause camber and toe to change. It might not always be visible but having your camber out of adjustment will cause the tire to run on the inside edge only. The lower you go the more negative camber you will get and the faster the tire will wear. Toe will also be affected. Having your toe out of specifications will wear tires and make the car handle unfavorably.
 
There is more than one kit listed. Which one do I need?
Ingalls has designed up to six different kits for some vehicles. The correct kit is determined by how much your camber is away from the factory recommended specification and on some kits, what style of bushings you want (see next question).

Example: If you lower a 1992 Accord 1.25”, the top of your tires will tilt inward (negative camber) somewhere between -.875° and –1.5° depending on vehicle make, model, year, type of kit and initial readings. To adjust a negative (-) reading back towards 0 you will need to move it positive (+). Ingalls has kit numbers 35700 and 35710 that will correct up to +1° and the 35720 or 35730 start at +1-1/4° and go up to +3°.

Without having your exact camber readings it would only be a guess at which kit is the correct one.
 
Which one should I use, polyurethane or rubber?
Polyurethane bushings are designed for a performance like ride. Polyurethane may squeak if not properly lubricated. You should use a lubricant that will not wash away. Once the lubricant is washed out or contaminated from road grime the lubricant will no longer be effective. This can cause premature wear on the bushings. You will need to re-lubricate.
Rubber bushings are designed for the "street" use only vehicle. They provide a more factory like ride. These bushings do not need to be lubricated, but will not provide you with that "tight" suspension feel.
 
What should I lubricate the polyurethane with?
The best information we have acquired about this is from the people that prefer to use polyurethane.  Here is a list:
Slick 50 grease .
Slick 50 spray lube.
AntSeeze lube.
Moly graph based wheel bearing grease.

The key is to use a lube that will not wash out easily. A normal automotive type lube/grease will work or use a marine type lube. Check with your local marine/boat dealer for this.  You can also use silicone spray lubricant (available in auto parts stores), it will provide an easy but temporary relief from squeaks.
 
How much are the kits?
Ingalls does NOT sell direct. We have several distributors across the nation. We do have our suggested LIST pricing on this web site.
See PRODUCT LISTING and hit Next Page until you find the correct part for your vehicle.
 
Why don't the SH model Preludes have a camber kit?
The SH model Preludes have a different taper in the spindle for the upper ball joint. The difference is just enough for the non SH model balls to sit high in the stud hole and not seat properly.
 
Will LARGER diameter wheels change my camber?
Wheel diameter does not change camber. Changing the diameter of the wheel doesn't change any suspension geometry and will not affect camber.
 
What is a "OE-##" number?
OE stands for Original Equipment, click on the OE-?? and you will see a diagram of the factory adjustment.
 
What is the warranty on Ingalls ball joints?
Ingalls has a 1 year warranty on our ball joints. See Product Warranty for complete warranty information.
 
What causes the premature wear of the ball joint?
Since Ingalls started selling ball joints, to date we have only received 5 ball joints from an installer or customer to be considered for warranty. In all 5 cases there was only 1 cause for the ball joint's premature wear. The boot had been torn and/or ripped during installation or during use. The Honda/Acura ball joints are NOT greaseable through a grease zerk. They are a sealed ball joint. Once the boot is ripped the grease will run out or water and contaminants will get into the ball joint. Using the ball joint without grease will cause it to wear.
 
What causes the ball joint boot to tear or rip during use?
In "Normal Use", ball joint boots are exposed to heat, cold, water, tar, brake dust, rocks, dirt and any other element/object you can think of that is associated with a road. Any one of these can cause damage to the boot. Boots are designed to handle most of these elements for many years in "Normal Use". Unfortunately we can NOT consider the use of ball joints installed on a vehicle that is lowered "Normal Use". The ball joint on a vehicle that has been lowered NO longer sits in the optimum position it was designed for. On a vehicle that is lowered, the ball joint is forced to sit to one side and at the far inside edge of its range of motion. This can cause the boot to bind together on one side. The lower the car is the more the boot binds on itself. Checking the boot for rips or tears and replacing the boot if one occurs can avoid premature wear of the ball joint. Ingalls sells the boot separate if needed. Part # 84201 is a pair of replacement boots. The boots are sold in pairs only, if one side is wearing, the other side is most likely wearing. List Price is $4.62 plus shipping and handling. This will be sold to the public on a Credit Card or Prepaid basis only.
 
 
Questions from the Service Counter
 
What is an alignment?
An alignment returns the tires to the factory specifications that allows you the best in tire wear and handling.
 
Why do I need one?
As miles and years accumulate, the alignment will change on all vehicles. Potholes, general wear and tear and even the weight of the vehicle itself cause changes in the alignment settings.
 
Can’t you just rotate my tires?
The problem isn’t with the tires. It is a physical change in the dynamics of the vehicle itself. Tire wear, poor handling are symptoms of these changes.
 
How does camber affect my tires?
Camber outside or to the extreme limits of the specification will cause tire wear on the inside or outside of the tires. Unequal camber can cause your car to pull to one side.
 
Why does my car pull to the right?
There are several reasons why the car will pull. Unequal camber, unequal caster, road crown, unequal tire pressure or radial tire pull are all the most common reasons for a vehicle to pull to one side.
 
Why do I need cam bolts?
In the “good old days” setting the alignment was just a matter of adding or removing universal shims that were installed at the factory. When the factories changed from the old control arms to a strut system, in most cases the factory left alignment adjustments out to save money. To replace struts and not add cam bolts is like changing oil and not replacing the filter or doing a brake job by just replacing pads. There are always 3 ways to do something, the right way, the wrong way and the lazy way.
 
Why is my car out of alignment?  I just had it done a few weeks ago.
The first thing we need to check is the air pressure. If it didn’t pull after you just had the alignment completed and nothing is bent then the logical thing to check is the air pressure.
 
Why do I need a 4-wheel alignment?
Basically, to assure all the wheels are headed in the same direction. When factories moved to the FWD design the rear wheels were left to “hang out” for the ride. It didn’t take very long for rear tires to develop diagonal wear. This wear is caused by a rear wheel alignment problem. To combat this issue the factory added rear wheel specifications. Just like gapping spark plugs, resurfacing rotors, or changing oil the factory has a reason for setting a specification to a component.
 
Why are the inside of my tires going bald?
Negative camber or too much toe-out can cause inside tire wear. Add a low air pressure to the tires and you get an extreme tire wear very quickly.
 
If I replace my struts, do I need an alignment?
Definitely, replacement of any parts in the steering/suspension system requires an alignment to return the car to optimum handling. This is also the best time to install cam bolts.
 
 
Technician Questions  
 
Why don’t I install as many rear shims as I used to?
The lack of rear shim sales is directly connected to new suspensions developed by the factories. Think about Chrysler. In 1994 all Chryslers used rear shims, today only the PT Cruiser and front wheel drive minivans use rear shims. GM still uses rear shims in Cavalier’s and Sunfire but that’s about it.  The good news is just as front wheel drive cars opened up the market of rear wheel shims the new suspensions have opened up other opportunities in the alignment market. Adjustable rear links such as Ingalls Engineering SmartArms tm allows rear alignments on the new suspensions.
 
Why not just slot a strut instead of using a cam bolt?
It is possible to slot the strut and it is one of the first ways to change camber with a strut. Luckily someone had a better idea than slotting the strut. Instead of slotting the quickest way to change camber accurately is with one of the latest cam bolts. Removing the OE bolt and replacing it with a specially designed cam bolt, such as Ingalls Engineering FastCam tm is the quickest and most accurate way to change camber.
 
My customer is complaining about “bump steer”.  Will an alignment fix it?
This condition is the result of a change in front wheel steering angle created by the upward and downward ("bump") movement of a vehicle's front suspension. Both toe-in and toe-out can change during bump steer. It is also a common result of a tie rod (end) not following the same arc path of the wheel to which it is connected. Alignment will not correct this. The most common cause is bent parts on a street use vehicle.
 
What effect does ride height have on alignments?
Ride height is the second most neglected part of wheel alignment.  Camber is directly affected by the ride height. A perfect example is the lowered Hondas that are so popular now. A drop of just 1-inch on the double wishbone suspension moves camber negative .84 degree. 
 
When I put in a Ford truck bushing, why is it never right the first time?
Sounds like an incorrect base reading. Just like trying to read a map you have to know where you are before you can get where you need to be. This is why I always recommend using a zero bushing to get an accurate base reading. Dropping in a zero bushing returns the ball joint stud to the upright position.
 
Is 0 degree bushing considered a bushing or a tool?
It’s a tool when you use it to get a base reading and remove it. It’s a bushing when you install it to get a base reading and it puts your readings where you wanted them.
 
My computerized aligner says my alignment is in the green, why does it still handle funny?
In some cases the specifications are very wide. A Honda Accord with a spec of 0° and a tolerance of plus or minus 1° will make driving very interesting if it leaves your shop at +1° on the right and –1 on the left. It’s “in the green” but it will pull to the right.
 
My customer’s Dodge 3500 4x4 has been back to the dealer twice for alignments but my customer still complains about what I consider a caster pull.  What is it?
If it is a caster problem, then Ingalls 61500 will correct the problem. Recently released the 61500 replaces the upper pivot (it’s not a ball joint) on these vehicles. You can use it to correct caster, camber or a combination of both. Its adjustable to plus or minus 2.5°
 
Is there a quick and easy method to remove Ford camber bushings?
The first line in the instructions for all Ford bushing pullers is “break the taper between the ball joint and bushing”. Use the Ingalls 92532 to break the taper then give the 92532 a couple of more hits with the hammer. The Ford bushing pops up to make it very easy to remove.
 
I was aligning my 86 Ford 2x4 and I needed to change caster.  Since I didn’t have the bushing called for, I used the Ford pinch bolt bushing that changes camber and caster.  It didn’t work.  Why?
In 1986 the ball joint stud points down and the base of the ball joint is in the “I Beam”. On the pinch bolt axle the stud points up and the base of the ball joint is in the spindle. Installing a bushing on the pinch bolt axle causes the base of the ball joint to move the spindle, because it moves the base of the joint (the ball joint pivot point) it will move caster.  However in the 1986 you can’t move the base of the ball joint without twisting the axle. Using the bushing on the 86 only tilts the stud and doesn’t move the pivot point.